I loooove taking trains in foreign countries — it’s simply the best way to travel and explore new areas. Trains have a steadiness to their movement that makes them far more enjoyable than busses or cars. It feels more like gliding through ever-changing landscapes, without the nausea-inducing stop-and-go of traffic.
And trains tends to move at a perfect pace: fast enough to cover significant ground, but slow enough to really take in the changing scenery and get a feel for the country. Sure, long-distance flights have their perks, but it’s always strange that you essentially teleport from one place to another, skipping everything in between. Being forced to travel slower by train or bus, gives you a much better sense of the land and its culture, instead of just hopping from one tourist spot to the next.
Whenever I plan a trip, the first thing I routinely check is whether there’s an intact rail network. And I’m always thrilled when plenty of connections are still maintained. One journey that had been on my list for years: the famous sleeper train through the Balkans. Last year, I finally made it happen! I traveled southbound, starting in Serbia’s capital Belgrade, and ending at Montenegro’s picturesque Riviera. That’s the best thing about the connection - not only is the train ride itself through rugged mountains spectacular, but as a cherry on top, it takes you to the stunning Mediterranean coast. Few things compare to the joy of a scenic train journey that leads one to the sea.
The practical stuff: The Montenegro Express runs twice a day in each direction and with around 11 hours of travel time, it’s certainly a looong ride, but it’s totally worth it. The daytime train Tara departs Belgrade at 9:31 and arrives in Bar at 20:37, while the sleeper train Lovcen leaves Belgrade at 20:30 and arrives in Bar at 7:23. Both cost only 21€. For travel by night train, add €6 for a couchette, €15 for a bed in a 3-bed sleeper, or €20 for a bed in a 2-bed sleeper. A reserved seat on the daytime train costs €3.
I opted for a bed in a 4-berth couchette, sharing the space with a sweet Serbian family. They didn’t speak English, and since I don‘t speak Serbian, we could only communicate non-verbally. I have a tendency for quite intense social anxiety, so the prospect of sharing a couchette with strangers for a whole night was stressing me out. Honestly, though, it only added to my experience. They were so kind & welcoming, offering me their snacks and drinks, and I felt nothing but warmth from them. Another reminder that many of my social fears are unfounded, and confronting them is always a wise move. That‘s a thing with train travel in general, many people prefer individual mobility by car out of fear of contact with strangers. I can’t count the times I’ve tried to convince my father to give trains a chance, but to no avail. His fears of being confined in a space with strangers outweighed his curiosity.
I went to bed at around 11 pm and had a decent sleep considering the circumstances (don’t forget to pack earplugs and a sleep mask!!). I woke up at dawn at around 6:30 and could not wait to get out of bed to experience sunrise through one of the sliding windows. We were in the middle of the Montenegrin mountains descending towards Podgorica, easily the most dramatic stretch of the journey. It was such a stunning experience to put in my AirPods and listen to my feel-good playlist as the sky glowed above the hills. The train follows river Tara and you can see its turquoise waters flowing alongside the tracks. This morning felt magical. Then after reaching the Montenegrin capital Podgorica, the train travels along Lake Skadar and even crosses a bridge with water on both sides of the train. It was still early, with the sunrise painting the landscape in stunning color — the views were so marvellous. For the finale of the trip to Bar, the train runs along the Adriatic giving you even more scenic views. After crossing 435 bridges and going through 254 tunnels along the way we finally arrive at the terminus in Bar right by the Mediterranean Sea. There’s a nostalgic charme to this trip thanks to the use of old train carriages. The railway was built in the 1950s — it feels a bit like time travel, connecting you with the rich history of the region. The Guardian once labelled the Balkan Express Europe’s best-kept rail secret, and I couldn’t agree more. I hope more people go on this journey. Train connections are never guaranteed to last forever, so don’t wait too long :)
On board Europe's most scenic railway through the Balkans